You can now download the 16 gig Patch 4.0.1 is now live and downloadable. This shows the class changes (including the new talents I believe) and the changes to the UI but the new Cataclysm content such as zones or quests or the new characters is not available.
http://www.wow.com/2010/09/11/patch-4-0-1-ptr-patch-notes-ptr-is-live/
Blessing of Kings started a new paladin to experience the new leveling. You can read what he thinks here.
http://blessingofkings.blogspot.com/2010/09/40-early-paladin.html
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